Spantik is located in a remote area in
the north-west of Pakistan in the Karakoram Range. It is a
7027m peak on the boundary between Hunza and
Baltistan. The peak was first attempted by Fanny and
William Bullock-Workman who ascended to 6700m in 1906. Karl
Kramer's expedition in 1995 completed the first successful
In recent times it has gained popularity due
to being relatively free of objective danger and ease of
access. The mountain now attract between five and 10
expeditions a year. It is considered one of the most straight
forward and safest 7000m peaks making it an ideal first 7000m
mountaineering peak. Members of an expedition can expect a full
expedition experience due to the nature of the approach and
base camp options.
The mountain is accessed easily from
Islamabad. From Islamabad an expedition may use the flight
to Skardu. This flight is often unavailable due to
weather conditions. When flying is not an option a two day bus
journey is necessary with an overnight stop in Chilas. The
drive is quite spectacular particularly after leaving the
Karakoram Highway. From Skardu jeeps are used for the one day
journey to Arundu. After a night campling near Arundu the 3 day
trek along the Chogolunggma Glacier to basecamp starts.
From base camp the south-east ridge is
followed to the summit. The first day is on a rocky ridge to
the snow line. from that point the snow and ice ridge is
followed to the summit. There are very few technical
difficulties however ice of 40 degrees is present. The ridge is
long and demanding and a good level of physical fitness is
Skardu is well equiped as a starting point
for an expecition. There are good hotels and some
mountaineering supplies are available. However don't expect to
get fully kitted out as you may get left short.
There are a number of commercial
operations that operate expeditions to Spantik. Links to
these businesses can be found on the links page.
Below is a link to trip report to an
expedition I was part of in 2004. I have also provided
some details including GPS readings of the position of base
camp and camps one and two.