Spantik, Pakistan

Spantik is located in a remote area in the north-west of Pakistan in the Karakoram Range. It is a 7027m peak on the boundary between Hunza and Baltistan. The peak was first attempted by Fanny and William Bullock-Workman who ascended to 6700m in 1906. Karl Kramer's expedition in 1995 completed the first successful ascent.

In recent times it has gained popularity due to being relatively free of objective danger and ease of access. The mountain now attract between five and 10 expeditions a year. It is considered one of the most straight forward and safest 7000m peaks making it an ideal first 7000m mountaineering peak. Members of an expedition can expect a full expedition experience due to the nature of the approach and base camp options.

The mountain is accessed easily from Islamabad. From Islamabad an expedition may use the flight to  Skardu. This flight is often unavailable due to weather conditions. When flying is not an option a two day bus journey is necessary with an overnight stop in Chilas. The drive is quite spectacular particularly after leaving the Karakoram Highway. From Skardu jeeps are used for the one day journey to Arundu. After a night campling near Arundu the 3 day trek along the Chogolunggma Glacier to basecamp starts.

From base camp the south-east ridge is followed to the summit. The first day is on a rocky ridge to the snow line. from that point the snow and ice ridge is followed to the summit. There are very few technical difficulties however ice of 40 degrees is present. The ridge is long and demanding and a good level of physical fitness is required.

Skardu is well equiped as a starting point for an expecition. There are good hotels and some mountaineering supplies are available. However don't expect to get fully kitted out as you may get left short.

There are a number of commercial operations that operate expeditions to Spantik. Links to these businesses can be found on the links page.

Below is a link to trip report to an expedition I was part of in 2004. I have also provided some details including GPS readings of the position of base camp and camps one and two.

Spantik Trip Report